A Bite-Sized Tour of Big Chinatown

Bangkok at times can seems like the Thai version a Russian babushka doll. It opens to reveal neighbourhoods within villages, villages within towns and towns within the Great City of the Angels. John Borthwick takes us on a deep dive…

Copyright John Borthwick

Bangkok’s largest town-within-a-city by far is Yaowarat, reputedly the world’s oldest, of not largest Chinatown. Wanting to drill deeper into this complex place I join an Urban Adventures’ walking tour called “Chinatown Sights and Bites”.

We start where Chinatown’s most-visited attraction Wat Traimit, the Golden Buddha Temple, is home to a massive, five-metre, 5.5-tonne Buddha statue made almost entirely of, yes, gold. Our guide, Khun Ae turns out to be an unstoppable raconteur as he unfurls a shaggy-dog legend of the 13th century Buddha statue’s loss (centuries ago), discovery (by whom?), disguise (beneath stucco), displacement (by flood), re-discovery (by luck), revelation (by accident) and then ultimate relocation here to Chinatown.

Copyright John Borthwick

We head on through a maze of side streets where chillied, steaming, stir-fried aromas billow from fiery woks, pinging our lungs, eyes and appetites. Khun Ae steers us down a narrow walkway alley where painted doors open onto hobbit-size homes, to arrive at a tiny, three-table eatery. He orders bowls of tom sap, a zinging, Thai-Lao soup that stars pork, ginger, galanga and lemon grass. I leave nothing but the spoon in mine.

Powered-up, we’re soon on unsung Soi Phat Sai where the Easae tea shop, run by the same Thai-Chinese family for four generations, has served traditional brews since 1927. Taking our seats at old circular tables, we maintain traditions, old and new. There’s an abacus by the cash register, a WiFi password on the wall and, as foreigners, us fitting in perfectly by sticking out.

Copyright John Borthwick

We roll further along to Bangkok’s largest and most important Chinese shrine, the 1871 Dragon Lotus Temple — Wat Mangkon Kamalawat. Beneath the fierce, bulging-eyed gaze of its giant warrior statues the city’s Chinese community come to make merit at the wat’s incense-clouded altars and then to have their fortunes told.

Soi Itsara Nuphap, Chinatown. Copyright, John Borthwick

Emerging from a backstreet, we’re suddenly on Chinatown’s famous main drag, Yaowarat Road, a broad, neon-blitzed thoroughfare that’s programmed to perpetually buy, sell and eat. In feng shui terms Yaowarat is a “golden dragon area” — that is, the ideal place for turning a baht or buck. Or preferably a million of either. If Chinatown is a golden dragon, this is its jewelled spine.

Yaowarat Road. Copyright John Borthwick

Beside apothecaries, goldsmiths and Blade Runner-style alleys we snack on delicious skewers of grilled pork and chicken fresh from a street hawker’s cart. Exotica aside, busy Yaowarat is the engine-room of the thriving Thai-Chinese economy and, in truth, is much more about high finance and trade than the Orientalism of its street show.

Copyright John Borthwick

I can’t eat another thing, which is fine because we’re leaving behind Yaowarat’s endless progressive feast. Our final destination will be mojitos, not food. At the venerable Grand China hotel we take a lift and then follow Ae up narrow stairs to a little-known roof bar where the view of sunset across the Bangkok skyline is the real attraction. In a city that’s home to a dozen lofty sky bars boasting 360-degree views and flocks of trending mixologists, the Grand China’s less celebrated watering hole is, to be generous, only 50 percent as flash — but gloriously so. At half the altitude (23rd floor), with half the view (only 180-degrees) and drinks at half the price, it might just be twice the fun.

Road Tripping in Chiang Rai

Chiang Rai, the lesser-known sister to cosmopolitan Chiang Mai, is well worth exploring, writes guest writer Michael Cullen in this detailed guide to road-tripping this northern Thailand region.

With its more laid-back style, visitors experience eye-popping temples, abundant nature, organic foodie trails, cultural insights into the Hill Tribe communities, and easy access to the Golden Triangle region, to name just a few offerings.

A self-guided road trip is a great way to delve into lesser-explored northern Thailand and, for couples, create cherished memories from shared holiday experiences.

Given the breadth of opportunities on offer, spending seven days (or more) exploring greater Chiang Rai would be easy. As a great starting point, spend a few days enjoying this small, amiable city, before heading further afield.

Ancient Lanna Capital & Gateway to The Golden Triangle

Thailand’s northern-most province borders Myanmar and Laos, with the border tripoint just under 70 kilometres northeast of the Chiang Rai city. The provincial capital, Chiang Rai, is serviced by direct flights from Bangkok, making the city and region easy to access. Chiang Mai, around 200 km southwest, is an alternate access point.

The region boasts a long history of smaller kingdoms, while the city of Chiang Rai was founded in 1262 by King Mengrai. It was temporarily the capital of Mengrai’s Lanna Kingdom until being superseded by Chiang Mai.

Covering approximately 11,700 square kilometres, the mainly mountainous region has peaks rising to 1,500 metres above sea level. Inhabiting the highlands are ethnic hill tribes like the Akha, Lahu, Karen, Hmong, and ethnic Chinese settlers. Apparently, the CIA coined the name Golden Triangle for the overlapping mountains of the three adjacent countries. It was one of the world’s largest opium-producing areas from the 1950s to the early 21st century.

Chiang Rai city lies on alluvial plains on the banks of the Kok River. The ‘plains’ rich soils produce a vast range of vegetables and fruits, while coffee, tea, nuts and fruit plantations hug the mountains. Over recent years, the adoption of organic production has seen the region’s agricultural reputation grow significantly.

Chiang Rai City Highlights

City Centre Temples

Within about two square km of the city centre, you can find seven Buddhist temples and numerous markets. Here are our top picks.

Near the Clock Tower is one of the most interesting temples, Wat Ming Muang, because it is so different from any other in town. Additionally, Queen Ta La Mae Sri, and not her husband King Mengrai, is said to have founded this temple. According to the legend, 14th century Wat Phra Kaew’s stupa was struck by lightning, revealing the highly revered Emerald Buddha, now enshrined at Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok. Within the temple grounds is a compact museum housing a replica. From the same era, Wat Phra Singh, adjacent to the Post Office, houses a replica of the holy statue Phra Buddha Sihing, the original now enshrined in Chiang Mai’s Wat Phra Singh.

Markets

Markets provide tremendous insight into the region’s produce, people, local food styles and daily life. They are a buzz of activity, a riot of colour, a cacophony of noise, and stimulate a sense of intrigue and sometimes bewilderment.

Ngam Mueang Market (5 am to 6 pm) off Ruangnakron Rd is indoors with everything from fresh seafood, meats, fruit and vegetables to clothing and haberdashery. Also undercover is Municipal Fresh Market 1 open (6 am to 9 pm). About 600 meters from the gleaming gold Clocktower is the busy Sirikorn Fruit and Vegetable Market, with photogenic fresh flower stalls nearby.

Chiang Rai boasts two walking street Night Markets. Thanalai Road transforms into the Saturday Night Market from 4 pm till late, offering everything from tasty Thai street food, local artisans’ artefacts, dance, and an open area to sit back and enjoy the festivities. The Sunday Night Market on Sankhongnoi Rd (or Happy Street) had a strong reputation for offering excellent local crafts and delectable street food and is expected to reopen as visitor numbers increase. The Night Bazaar behind the central Bus Station runs every evening and is the most touristy and, therefore, less authentic market in Chiang Rai.

Local Dining & Cafés

Chiang Rai has an abundance of eating outlets, from street stalls and casual family-run noodle shops to restaurants offering local and international cuisine.

Popular northern Thai dishes include Gaeng Hung Lay curry, Sai Oua sausage, Nam Prik Noom Kab Moo, the noodle and pork dish Kanom Jeen Nam Ngiew, and most famous – Khao Soi.

Khantoke, a wood pedestal tray, is another northern Thai tradition where people are seated on the floor with the tray in the centre acting as a table. Toke-Tong Restaurant offers this unique experience in a delightful welcoming garden. Tantalise the tastebuds and enjoy fun eventing while sharing and devouring a range of northern Thai dishes, including the specialities mentioned above.

For sky-high sundowners and a stunning sunset, The Peak atop the upmarket Riverie Hotel is a must-visit spot for cocktails or a romantic dinner and some dazzling photos.

Coffee loving couples rejoice, Chiang Rai grown and roasted beans, at the hands of skilled baristas, deliver some knock-out coffee. In the city centre, try Arabitia Cafe, Akha Hill Coffee and Doi Chaang Coffee, and just south, The Roast Coffee, a personal favourite.

Museums

Mae Fah Luang Art & Cultural Park, under Royal Patronage, houses the region’s most extensive collection of Lanna artefacts in two stunning traditional teak timber halls. Complementing this well maintained and fascinating museum is gloriously maintained gardens, ponds and a quality gift shop.

Oub Kham Museum features the extensive and remarkable collection of museum curator Julasak Suriyachai whose lineage is traced back to a Shan royal family of Kengtung in Burma (Myanmar). Exhibits include royal regalia, handicrafts, and artefacts, displayed in buildings amongst beautiful gardens and courtyards.

Insider tip: close by on Ratyotha Rd is ‘Khaosoi 100 Year Café’ with excellent Khao Soi.

‘Road Trip’ North of the River

Across the Kok River, this short road trip is around 30 km and includes a must-visit café beside the Kok River, unique temples, a museum visit, and a look around the countryside.

Wat Huay Pla Kang, with the immense gleaming white statue, dominates the landscape and features three impressive structures, including the Phop Chok Dhamma pagoda displaying Thai, Chinese, and European design influences and an all-white (inside and out) Thai style sermon hall. The dominant and imposing white statue of Kuan Im, the Goddess of Mercy, has an elevator to the 25th floor where you take in beautiful district views looking through the eyes of the Goddess. This complex cares for 500+ orphans, and you can help by buying items for donation.

Baan Dam (or Black House) is a museum created by Chiang Rai-born artist Thawan Duchanee, who resided on the complex until he died in 2014. In various classic teak and more unusual igloo-style buildings are many of Duchanee’s artworks and objects, including animal bones, skins, and skulls. It sits within peaceful, well-cared-for grounds.

Insider Tip: Stop at Ruk Raek Coffee immediately adjacent to the museum entrance and carpark for a great organic coffee or tea and a quick snack.

Wat Rong Sear Tean (Blue Temple) is mesmerising with vivid blues and bright golden touches on the roof and eaves. The temple is exquisitely designed and full of Buddhist imagery, including a gigantic, magnificent white porcelain Buddha. Murals adorn the walls inside, while motifs delightfully wind their way around blue pillars. The ceiling is a work of art in itself.

Chivit Thamma Da Coffee House & Bistro is just 300 meters from the Blue Temple and sits on the banks of the Kok River. This coffee house and bistro is a Chiang Rai must-visit.

‘Road Trip’ South – White Temple, Waterfall & Singha Park

Wat Rong Khun (White Temple) is around 13 km south of Chiang Rai. In the style of a Buddhist temple complex, this privately-owned art exhibit was designed and constructed by Thai visual artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. It is a stunning example of contemporary and traditional Thai architecture creating a temple structure unlike any other. The onsite gallery sells artwork by Kositpipat.

About 15 km southwest is Nam Tok Khun Kon National Forest Park. Take this beautiful 30-minute walk along meandering paths to the Khun Kon waterfall, surrounded by rainforest and towering bamboo. With a 70-meter drop, it is the highest waterfall in Chiang Rai. Outside of the wet season, swimming at the base of the falls may be feasible but consult with Park officials first.

Rounding out this 60 km road trip is a visit to Singha Park, a 14 square kilometre recreational wonderland. Visitors have abundant choices with extensive walking and cycling tracks, plus family water activities, rock climbing, and ziplining.

For Instagram fans, the vast fields of pastel-coloured flowers and the rolling tea plantation are a must. Cafes and restaurants are spread throughout this popular park. For something extra romantic and memorable, enjoy a Hot Air Balloon experience or visit during their annual ballooning festival.

‘Road Trip’ East for Cloud Seas

Around 90 km east of Chiang Rai city are the mountains bordering Laos, with Mount Phu Chi Fah the most famous. Most visitors stay overnight, taking the 760-meter hike up an unpaved track to the summit to experience sunrise from the peak’s viewpoint. In Winter, a sea of clouds rolls through the valleys below, providing an eery though evocative scene. And it can be pretty cold in those hours around dawn. A further 12 km from Phu Chi Fah is the less-visited viewpoint, Phu Chi Dao, with magnificent views of the Mekong River in the Laos lowlands below.

Insider Tip: Detour to the impressive organic farm, restaurant, and glamping site, Rai Ruen Rom, on your journey out or back. Enjoy a healthy meal in the café, browse their shop with unique gifts and souvenirs and wander the gardens and farm.

Golden Triangle Loop (3-5 days)

This extended loop takes you through many of the highlights of the Golden Triangle region, including Chiang Saen, 60 km northeast of Chiang Rai, the Golden Triangle Viewpoint, Doi Tung, Mae Salong and more.

One of the oldest cities in Thailand, Chiang Saen, was established early in the 14th century. It was a strategic border post of the Lanna Kingdom, an important centre of Buddhism, and a vital stop-off point along the old Chinese-Siam river trade routes. After a turbulent history, including being captured by the Burmese and then destroyed by King Rama I, Chiang Saen became a ghost town for several hundred years.

Present-day Chiang Saen is low key with its historical past and old city ruins as part of its attraction. While you’re in town, visit the Chiang Saen National Museum and some impressive temples, such as Wat Pa Sak, Wat Phra Chao Lan Thong, and Wat Phra That Pha Ngao. Stroll along the banks of the Mekong River, bicycle around the monuments, and enjoy inexpensive, delicious local food at street-side vendors. Bird enthusiasts will enjoy Chiang Saen Lake, especially during the migratory season. Sunsets over the lake can also be spectacular.

To further tap into the local history, stay at the family-owned and run Athita The Hidden Court boutique hotel, situated just 70 meters from the Mekong and next to the 700-year-old Wat Athi Ton Kaew. The family are keen to share their heritage and culture with guests, making this an ideal base.

Golden Triangle Viewpoint About 11km north of Chiang Saen is the village of Ban Sop Ruak, the tripoint of Laos, Myanmar, and Thailand. The Ruak River forms the border between Thailand and Myanmar and joins the Mekong at this point. Great photo opportunities abound, including a Golden Buddha (Phra Chiang Saen Si Phaendin) sitting atop a specially constructed metal and glass boat on the riverside. Longboat trips on the Mekong are also available.

A few kilometres from this point is the expansive Hall of Opium Museum and a highly recommended stop. The museum tells how Royal sponsored initiatives, including specific programs from Her Royal Highness the Princess Mother, turned the denuded mountains of the region from illegal poppy growing and opium drug production to more uplifting and inclusive community development outcomes. Such programs are still positively serving local communities many years on.

Golden Triangle Mountain Communities

Mae Sai

From the tri-border point, road trippers can head northwest around 50 km to the bustling border town of Mae Sai, Thailand’s northernmost point. At the border immigration point, there is the potential for a brief crossing into Myanmar for a photo opportunity. Approximately 12 km south of Mae Sai, though off the highway, is Tham Luang – Khun Nam Nang Non National Park, where the now-famous cave rescue played out over 18 days in mid-2018. National Parks have now created an information display showing how the rescue unfolded.

Doi Tung – Mae Fah Luang Region

If time is short, head straight from the Mekong (40-50 km trip) to the Doi Tung (Tung Mountain) region, the centrepiece of many of the change initiatives highlighted in the Hall of Opium Museum. For the last 30 years, the Doi Tung Development (Social Enterprise) Project has been the driver of change. Creating a region that now boasts sustainable communities focused on high-value crops like coffee and macadamia nut, plus thriving (and international award-winning) ceramics, textiles, and handicrafts.

Must-sees include the spectacular 10-acre temperate-climate Mae Fah Luang Garden. Tour the Royal Villa, a Swiss Style Chalet built for the late Princess Mother when she was in the region. Learn how the Royal Family positively impacted this region and its Hill Tribe communities at the Hall of Inspiration. If open, challenge yourself on the suspension bridges of the Doi Tung Tree Top Walk. Be tempted in the Doi Tung boutiques, enjoy Doi Tung coffee, and if staying overnight, the highly regarded romantic  Doi Tung Lodge rounds out your mountain-top experience.

Mae Salong

From Doi Tung, you can drive across the mountain tops to the tea-growing region of Mae Salong (approximately 45 km) while being rewarded with sensational verdant outlooks as you traverse the winding roads.

Mae Salong (also called Santikhiri) has long been an Akha hill tribe community. Its population grew by a few thousand ethnic Chinese nationalists who fled their homeland in 1949, after the Communist Revolution. The Thai government gave them citizenship on the agreement they become trusted members of the community and established Oolong Tea, mushrooms, and such agricultural products. The town is built along a meandering narrow ridge, with lanes and streets running off the main (ridge) road.

Tea production is undoubtedly a big part of this region, as visits to Tea Plantation 101 or Wang Put Tan Tea Plantation demonstrate. Several Chinese tea houses in town provide samples and packaged tea to take home. Coffee is also grown in the region and is worth seeking out for coffee lovers.

Other attractions include the Chinese Martyrs’ Memorial Museum, which tells their story and how the Chinese immigrants helped the Thai Army root out communist insurgence in Thailand as part of their settlement deal. Hilltop Phra Boromathat Chedi (Thai-style stupa) overlooks Mae Salong village with rewarding views and is worth driving up. This glorious Wat was built in honour of the late Princess Mother and is very restful.

The early morning market is excellent for discovering the local produce and securing your Akha hill tribe handicraft. A selection of the local eateries offer tasty Dim Sum and Yunnan style noodle dishes and are worth seeking out. And while wandering the central (ridge) road, check out the street art murals telling humorous local stories. There is a broad selection of accommodation in Mae Salong, and we enjoyed this boutique family run Guest House that had outstanding town and district views.

Mae Salong to Chiang Rai

The return journey to Chiang Rai from Mae Salong is about 60 km, taking you back through regional communities and farmlands before joining Highway 1 back to the city and Chiang Rai airport.

Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle region have so much more to offer as you take the time to explore. We hope the details provided here inspire you to make the trip and sample the delights of  Thailand’s far north for yourself.

Words and images: Michael Cullen.

In step with Bangkok

Travel writer Helen Hayes takes us on a walking tour of Bangkok’s neighbourhoods.

The way to get to know a city is to take to its heart. Bangkok is no different, its laneways full of surprising eateries, historic buildings and local shops. Not to mention, meeting local people in their neighbourhoods.

Bangkok might not seem like a great city for walking but I beg to differ. Amazing Thailand recently released 15 excellent walking tour itineraries for Bangkok, taking you to places you might never have been aware of.

Bangkok Street Food vendor Credit-Yulia-Grigoryeva-shutterstock
Bangkok street food vendor, Credit Yulia Grigoryeva: Shutterstock

To get to know the old Bangkok, take the walking tour that goes behind the old city wall. Highlights include the Baan Bat community, who have been crafting the alms bowls used by monks since the 1700s, and Trok Shanghai – founded by 40 Chinese families in the days of King Rama 1V.  This community is known for its wooden furniture. Other highlights include Wat Saket with its Golden Mount containing the Buddha’s relics, the fort of Pam Mahakan and Loha Prasat – the Metal Castle.

Explore Bang Lamphu and beyond

On this walk around Bang Lamphu, explore the Bangkok Metropolitan Museum, Pipit Bang Lamphu, the Coin Museum, the Red Building, and the Tha Tian Market. Also check out the Giant Swing, which was built for the Swinging Ceremony – a Brahmin-Hindu ritual.

Bangkok Old Town Rattanakosin Wat Pho
Rattanakosin Island: Shutterstock

The area around Rattanakosin Island, is spoiled for choice. This is the historic centre of town, an artificial island rich in history. It is here you will find the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Pho. The city’s most famous landmark, the Grand Palace was built in 1782 and was home to the Thai King, the Royal Court and the government for a century and a half.  Also with its grounds is Wat Phra Kaew – also known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. It holds the small Emerald Buddha dating back to the 4th Century. While on the island, also spend time at Wat Pho, home to the triumph that is the Reclining Buddha created in 1832.  

It is not just history you will be rewarded with in this area, as it is here you’ll find some magnificent street food. The much vaunted Jay Fai is located here, a street food eatery that has a Michelin Star thanks to the incredible food delivered by Supinya Junsuta (Jay Fai is her nickname), the diminutive lady who cooks wearing ski goggles and bright red lipstick.

Another well-known place in this area is Tipsamai, said to have one of best Pad Thais in the country.

Into the Dragon’s Lair

Another good walk into the soul of Bangkok is in the Yaowarat area. Known as the Dragon’s Lair, it has many shrines and temples, and tells the story of the Chinese history in Bangkok. Visit the Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre, the Phra Phuttha Maha Suwan Patimakon which houses the largest solid gold Buddha image in the world, the Gold Museum, and try the Khao Man Kai (Hainanese chicken rice) at Thai Hen – they have been making it for a century.

Copyright John Borthwick

The Thon Buri area is another wonderful place to walk the streets, with the absolute highlight being the magnificent Wat Arun – the Temple of Dawn. Located on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River, Wat Arun is revered as one of the most beautiful temples in all of Thailand. It is quite different to other temples, with its spire (prang) an impressive 70 metres high and coated with Chinese porcelain and coloured glass. As beautiful as it is during the day, it is even more spectacular at night. Book a dinner cruise on the river and enjoy a different view of the sights you have seen on your strolls in this magical of cities.

Wat Arun
Wat Arun – the Temple of Dawn: Shutterstock

10 Island Hopping Highlights for party-lovers in Thailand

The islands of Thailand’s Andaman Coast have plenty to offer those with an adventurous, fun-loving agenda in mind. Here are 10 highlights recommended by influencer (and party lover) Thatraveller Holly O’Sullivan.

1. Take the Plunge at LUB D’s Pool Party and party on down Bangla Rd in Phuket

LUB D hotel’s famous pool party is a good place to kick off an island-hopping Thailand adventure. A popular hub for backpackers, it is a great place to meet people that you’ll likely run across again on your Thailand travels.

From here, dive deep into Phuket’s nightlife on Bangla Road, which transforms by night into one big hectic walking street. There are bars of all shapes and flavours, some a little more risqué, some just like your classic Aussie pub.

2. Cocktails & rock climbing at Railay Beach, Krabi

Surrounded by high limestone cliffs, Railay Beach is only accessible by boat – the best way to get here is on a traditional long tail boat. The cliffs attract rock climbers from all over the world, so if you’re feeling active, head for the cliffs, or if you’d rather chill out, head for one of the beautiful white sandy beaches or grab a frozen cocktail at one of the beach-side reggae bars.

3. Go on a Bar Crawl on Phi Phi Island

Off the coast of Phuket, Ko Phi Phi may be a small island, but it’s big on nightlife. The island is a popular meetup place for backpackers, with beach bars, fire shows and plenty of free-pouring. Start your evening in town with a tasty Thai dinner and cocktails and bar-hop your way down the alleyways towards the beach.

4. Swim through an Emerald Cave on a 4-Islands tour in Ko Lanta

A 4-Islands tour from Ko Lanta takes in the islets of Ko Muk, Ko Kradan, Ko Cheuk and Ko Ngai. The tour starts on a high on the island of Ko Muk, as you float through the enchanting Morakot (Emerald) Cave into a secret hidden bay, a white sandy beach shaded by rainforest canopy. From this enchanted cave, it’s on to more island hopping the turquoise waters and white sandy beaches of Ko Kradan, Ko Cheuk and Ko Ngai.

5. See the famous Beach at Maya Bay, Phi Phi

While you may not have heard of Phi Phi Island, you’ve probably heard of ‘The Beach’, made famous in the 2000 Leonardo DiCaprio movie. Maya Beach itself is closed to tourists for an indefinite period of rehabilitation but until it is reopened you can explore the bay by boat.

6. Hike up to Ko Phi Phi Viewpoints

If you’re looking to exert yourself beyond the cocktail bars and white sandy beaches of Ko Phi Phi, spend a day hiking the Viewpoints. There are three viewpoints to hike to, which can be climbed in succession. If you want to see all three at a relaxed pace, you’ll want to allocate an entire day for this activity. The hike to the top can be tough, but the reward, the panoramic views from the summit make it well worth the trek.

7. Take part in a Muay Thai Boxing Comp on Ko Phi Phi

On Ko Phi Phi there’s a dedicated Muay Thai boxing bar where you can compete against each other and win prizes. If you’re not the competitive type, simply take in a few games over a beer or two. The Thai combat sport is also known as the ‘Art of 8 Limbs’ as it uses a combination of fists, elbows, knees and shins. The sport can be traced back to the 18th century but it became more popular in the late 20-21st century when introduced to the wider world.

Every major city in Thailand has Muay Thai venues, and if you don’t just happen to stumble across one while walking down the street, the bars advertise by driving vans around each day announcing the time and place.

8. Climb 1237 Steps up to the Tiger Temple (Wat Tham Suea), Krabi

1237 steps in the heat of the Thai tropics is not easy, but worth it to see the views at the peak, over Krabi’s mountainous landscape. The temple complex is a maze of natural caves, with the main temple atop a rocky outcrop overlooking the town below. The starting point for this walk is an experience in itself, as you pick your way through some cheeky resident monkeys. From here it’s mainly uphill, but the trail flattens out every so often, and there’s plenty of space at each corner to take a break in the shade.

Note: As a place of worship it is respectful (and required) to be modestly dressed. If you are wearing shorts you can rent a sarong at the entrance.

9. Relax in Krabi’s Emerald Pools and Hot Springs

The mineral-infused water of Krabi’s Hot Springs is said to have healing qualities, and they certainly provide a relaxing tranquil atmosphere, under a shady rainforest canopy. Make your way through a sequence of small pools of varying temperatures, gradually cooler as you make your way from the top down.

A trip to the nearby stunning Emerald Pool, in the Thung Teao Forest National Park, is worth it simply for the photo opportunity. A 2.7 km trail takes you through beautiful virgin rainforest before reaching the crystal-clear lake for a refreshing dip.

10. Eat your way through Thailand at Krabi’s night markets.

There are two daily night markets in Krabi Town. The first (and best) is opposite City Hotel on Soi 10 Maharat Road, with excellent street food stalls serving everything from pad thai to catfish curry, salads, soups and sweets. It’s also a good place to buy fresh fruit.

The second night market is more like an open air food court. A series of small restaurants with plastic tables and chairs on Khong Kha Road, next to the old Chao Fah pier. Between them, they serve a huge variety of dishes, and you can mix and match and sit down at any available table to feast.

One of the best ways for party-lovers to explore Thailand’s islands is on a Busabout tour with like-minded travellers.

Free-wheeling in Bangkok

Guest blogger and award-winning Australian travel writer Louise Southerden finds there’s more to the Thai capital than temples and tuk-tuks on a Bangkok bike tour.

Imagine a bike-friendly city and you’ll probably think of, say, Copenhagen or Amsterdam. Not an Asian city, and definitely not Bangkok, that sprawling stopover of a capital inhabited by 12 million people and better known for tuk-tuks than bike trails. Continue reading “Free-wheeling in Bangkok”