The home stay experience in Thailand – Koh Yao

Home stay accommodation in Thailand is becoming more and more popular – in fact demand is growing across South East Asia, and it’s not just because it’s cheap. Taking advantage of accommodation like this is a great way to experience what Thai village life is really like, far-removed – but often not far away – from the bright lights of Phuket, Koh Samui, Bangkok and Chiang Mai.

Travel writer Deborah Dickson-Smith sampled the simple life in Koh Yao, only a 35-minute ferry ride from Phuket in Phang Na province. Here’s what she had to say about her experience.

Having taken the short ferry ride from northern Phuket, I enter a different world alighting at Manoh Pier on Koh Yao and beyond that I have no idea what to expect, or indeed where to go. My homestay host is called ‘Uncle Bao’ and I’m greeted at the pier by his son, Lee, riding a scooter. He looks at my luggage and scratches his head. “We come back for it.”

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And so we head into town – a school, police station, mosque and a row of shops surrounded by rice fields. Before long we turn into a grassy driveway, I’m led to my little bamboo hut, introduced to Mrs Bao and told to be ready at 12 o’clock for lunch. Mrs Bao smiles sweetly while her son enquires about food allergies and then he disappears to take care of my luggage.

I finally get to meet Uncle Bao an hour or so later at lunch in the family kitchen, where he explains village life to me and suggests a few outings. This is a Muslim household and in fact, I learn over lunch that 98 per cent of villagers here are Muslim.

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After lunch, Lee comes to take me for a tour of the island on the back of his scooter. We head first to a small fishing village, then to a quiet sandy beach lined with cafes and a few souvenir shops and on to an over-water village, built around a long jetty that stretches through mangroves. I’m then shown around one of the rubber plantations that dot the island, competing for space only with rice fields. Rubber is still collected in a coconut husk tacked to the trunk of each tree, the same method used for over 100 years, with the diagonal tracks in each trunk refreshed every morning.

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As we circumnavigate this small island I get glimpses of the tall limestone islands of Phang Nga Bay which I’m heading out to explore tomorrow, but for now, there’s nothing to do but relax until dinnertime.

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Over dinner I learn a bit more about Uncle Bao’s village, and about Uncle Bao himself. Bao has been running this homestay for over 25 years, having struck upon the idea while trying to protect his previous livelihood: fishing. It was around then that the large commercial fishing trawlers came into the bay and took away the villagers’ livelihoods virtually overnight.

Bao tried petitioning local government to have the boats stopped, to no avail, and so took his fight to Bangkok. It was there he struck upon the idea of recruiting university students to help, and invited groups of students to his village, to see for themselves what was happening, and fight the fight for him in the nation’s capital.

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His strategy proved successful in two ways; the commercial fishing boats were eventually prohibited from fishing these waters; and along the way, Bao had discovered a new income stream, homestay accommodation, which was fast becoming popular among the backpacker tourists. Homestays were established in villages all over the island, fishermen returned to work and the villagers were all so grateful they voted Uncle Bao in as their local member of parliament.

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Which brings me here, to this quiet little alcohol-free island, now a thriving tourism destination, far away from the madding crowds of Phuket and Krabi. Where I can spend my days lounging in the hammock on my veranda, maybe go to the beach, wander aimlessly through rice fields and rubber plantations, or take an island-hopping tour of Phang Na Bay.

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I opt for an island hopping tour the next day, accompanied by Uncle Bao, on a long tail boat skippered by his brother-in-law. We explore a few limestone islands, some with caves and dripping stalactites, some with white sandy beaches and at least one populated with a large family of crab-eating macaques who scramble over the rock s to check us out.

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I can’t remember when I last felt so relaxed – and it’s not because I’ve been forced into a digital detox – there is free wifi here, and fantastic mobile reception. I just don’t feel compelled to use it, inspired by the simpler life around me.

Stay: Mr Bao’s Homestay and Bungalows. 32 Moo 1 Koh Yao Noi, Phang Na. Email: dusit999@hotmail.com

Getting There: Thai Airways fly twice daily from Sydney to Bangkok and daily from Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide and Perth. Connections to Phuket are pretty fast and efficient. Ferry transfer to Koh Lao is from Bang Rong Pier.

Koh Kood, a Thai homestay experience to remember

171.Trat-Koh Kood-Yai Kee BayKoh Kood is in the southern province of Trat. Visitors can now experience a two-day, one-night Thailand homestay for as little as $50, which includes learning about local food, bicycle touring and trying your hand at craftwork, as travel writer John Borthwick discovers.

“Do not dress up porn,” requests the welcome sign at Ban Nam Chiew village. Which is this unique Thai-Muslim-Chinese community’s way of asking visitors to not frock up, or down, as they might on a Phuket beach.

The riverside fishing village is in the southeastern province of Trat, on the Gulf of Thailand about 300 km from Bangkok. Its tourism coordinator Khun Noi and her committee are whipping up sweet—savoury crackers on a sizzling hotplate. They add coconut milk and tapioca, and then a topping of brown sugar and shallots, plus inimitable Thai flair. The delicious, crunchy morsels disappear down the hatch almost before we can say, “More!”

The 1500-person village has recently ventured into homestay tourism. Visitors like us can enjoy for less than $50 a head a two-day, one-night homestay, which includes learning about (and eating plenty of) the local food, bicycle touring and trying your hand at craftwork.

We travel on to Koh Kood (aka Ko Kut) island that floats in the Gulf closer to Cambodia than to Bangkok. Our ferry pulls into Ao Salat, an inlet that’s lined with trawlers, lobster pots, geranium pots, nets and all the vital signs of a community whose life has not been overtaken by tourism.

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Koh Kood is the nation’s fourth largest island and has good resorts and diving. It offers plenty to do for visitors who don’t want to do very much. Most of this hilly, densely forested island remains Royal Thai Navy property and its shores remain largely intact.

At Analay Reef off the west coast the ocean floor is sandy and the gin-clear water only 10 metres deep. Overboard we go for an hour of liquid delight amid healthy corals and sturdy bommies. Later we paddle kayaks upriver at Khlong Chao, a pristine mangrove channel that opens out to tumbled rocks and then a waterfall. Further offshore are more challenging dives at Koh Maak and Koh Rang National Park, all part of the Koh Chang Archipelago.

Koh Kood has jungles, beaches, tranquility and even luxury. There are some 50 accommodation options, mostly along the west coast, ranging from lodges to over-the-top luxe. Ao Salat, or Pirate Bay, so named because pirates long ago took shelter here, has inspired a local chain of four-star resorts called Peter Pan, Captain Hook and Tinkerbell.

Beautiful Soneva Kiri resort at the northern tip of the 25-km long island is about as upmarket as you might go before needing oxygen. Its “billionaire beachcomber” aesthetic is evidenced in a finely tuned assembly of sun-bleached timbers, pavilions and elegant aeries that overlook heaven or at least its Koh Kood annex. And then there are the handmade chocolates …

On the island’s southwest coast Chams’s House resort faces Haad Takien beach. White sand, empty beach, crisp waves. It’s place for romantics, singles, families or anybody who values a tropical shore without karaoke or a doof-doof bar next door.

This aromatic island, of sea pines, wood smoke and fireflies might be undeveloped and a bit awkward to get to, but that’s its salvation. Not all the roads are sealed. There is only one “town”, and not much nightlife beyond a few beach bars and fire-dances. There is however plenty of “porn” — a noble Thai word that can mean “gift”, “grace” or “blessings”. All true.

Getting There: Bangkok Airways fly Bangkok-Trat daily. It is then a 50-km drive to Trat’s Laem Sok pier. A one-hour ferry (price Ferry 500 baht, about $20) brings you to Koh Kood pier for your resort transfer. Or cross over from Koh Chang.

Season: The hottest months are April-August, and coolest November-February. Mid-May to mid-October is monsoon time.

Getting Around: There is virtually no public transport and taxis are few. Many visitors get around by rental motorbike, costing around $12 a day. For arrival, arrange a pick-up by your resort.

Further Information: www.bangkokair.com; www.homestaythai; www.chamshouse.com; reservations-kiri@sixsenses.com; www.kohkood.com 

A greener Gulf of Thailand

Thailand is fast becoming a leader in responsible tourism, providing visitors a wide range of sustainable attractions, activities, and accommodation offerings.

Visitors to popular holiday destinations such as Koh Samui, Koh Phangan and Koh Tao can choose from carbon neutral hotels, take part in local conservation efforts, enjoy paddock to plate fine dining and support local communities.

Koh Samui

Koh Samui’s tourism operators and local communities are committed to low-impact, environment-friendly travel experiences, providing many ways for travellers to experience the natural beauty of this region sustainably.

A great example of this is the Samui Elephant Sanctuary. The sanctuary opened at Bophut in 2018 and is so popular that a second location has since opened in Chaweng Noi. Both venues are set amid forests, creating a safe retirement home for elephants that have served in the logging and tourism industries. Visitors can feed and walk with the elephants – or simply watch them enjoy their freedom as they socialise and romp in the muddy pools.

Koh Tao

Koh Tao has embraced a sustainable lifestyle for many years, proactively reducing waste and putting considerable energy into research and sustainability projects. Community gardens, organic composting, solar panel installations, and the natural production of biogas are just a few strategies some local businesses are using to decrease their consumption levels and work towards more sustainable practices.

The island now celebrates its world-famous marine environment with an annual festival, Spotlight Koh Tao, which in fact spotlights marine conservation issues. Visitors to the festival can choose from a selection of revitalisation activities, everything from beach clean-ups to zero-waste Thai cooking classes.

The island’s diving community were among the first to witness the effects of over-tourism, pollution and climate change on local reefs and have joined forces to monitor reef health, manage regular underwater clean-ups and nurture coral restoration projects. Some, such as Black Turtle Dive have taken this step further with the development of marine conservation courses, internships, and workshops for visiting divers.

Another sustainable activity for visitors is a tie-dying workshop with Coco Tie Dye. Tie-dying is a zero-waste endeavour and cottage industry that provides income for locals. The workshop provides guests with an understanding of the island’s natural resources, combining education with a fun and focused artistic activity.

Koh Phangan

Nestled between Koh Samui and Koh Tai, Koh Phangan is famous for its wild full moon parties but is now becoming better known as a hub for alternative thinking and eco-conscious travellers.

A great example of this is Indigo Coral House. A craft workshop and accommodation run by the passionate duo Fatimah and Matteo, the property was built using sustainable bamboo, with construction methods refined to minimise use of non-renewable resources.

The House is also a haven for Burmese refugees, providing a safe space for them to live, where they can learn craft techniques such as leaf printing and weaving so they can create their own pieces and sell them at the markets to make an income. Tourists are also invited to these workshops to about leaf printing, composting, and building with bamboo.

Thoughtful travels in Chiang Rai

Amanda Kendle, the producer responsible for the popular Thoughtful Travel podcast share her favourite three experiences in Chiang Rai in her latest episode – somewhere she’s wanted to visit her whole life.

 

1. The White Temple.

More art and architecture than temple, designed and funded by well-known Thai artist Chalermchai Kositpipat. I try my best to describe it and there are some photos here – but you really do have to see it to believe it.

2. A day at Ahsa Farmstay, north of Chiang Rai city.

In this episode I explain what I loved about it and share an interview with one of the women who run it, Aun Wannamala.

3. Ban Pang Ha village in the northern tip of Thailand in Mae Sai.

At this community-based tourism initiative we enjoyed massages, facials, paper-making, great food and I chatted to Thiraphon Saraphrom about what makes Pang Ha so special.

Check out Amanda’s website for deeper insights into thoughtful travel in Thailand.

Conservation Diving in Koh Tao

Travel writer Jarryd Salem, one half the hugely popular Nomadasaurus travel blog team, recently revisited Koh Tao to find out more about the region’s marine conservation programs and was inspired to undertake the Ecological Monitoring Course run by local dive centre Black Turtle Dive.

Jarryd shares his experience on the Nomadasauris blog – here’s a taster:

On my first visit to Koh Tao in 2014 I completed my PADI Rescue Course, along with my Wreck and Enriched Air (Nitrox) specialties to further advance my skills.

Now with around 100 dives under my belt, I returned in 2023 to dive as much as possible and document my experiences as I stepped into the world of conservation.

It’s no secret that I love Koh Tao, and it was a real pleasure to be returning to the place that almost became home and start to give back to the reefs.

Most of my time on this gorgeous island was dedicated to doing the Koh Tao Ecological Monitoring Program (EMP) course with Black Turtle Dive, and it proved to be one of my most transformative experiences since first getting certified as a scuba diver more than a decade ago.

Finally, I began to understand the importance of marine conservation with firsthand experience, and how I could make a meaningful difference.

In this blog post, I’ll share my experience with the EMP course in Koh Tao, what I learned, and how it changed my perspective as a diver forever.

Table of Contents

The Ecological Monitoring Program (EMP) is a specialised scuba diving course that focuses on the documentation and conservation of marine ecosystems.

Offered by the non-profit organisation Conservation Divers and conducted exclusively in Thailand by the experienced team at Black Turtle Dive in Koh Tao, the course teaches divers about the complex relationships within coral reef ecosystems, various marine species identification, and the techniques required for underwater surveys.

The Ecological Monitoring Program is traditionally a 4-day course and combines practical diving skills with in-depth knowledge of marine biology and ecological monitoring techniques.

The goal is to equip divers with the tools and understanding necessary to contribute effectively to ongoing conservation efforts, not just in Koh Tao but around the world.

The data collected during these reef surveys, which are done weekly in Koh Tao, are then uploaded to a government-approved database so that scientists can track the health of the reef over time.

I’ve since discovered that these are the same types of surveys conducted by marine biologists all over the globe, including at my home on Magnetic Island in the Great Barrier Reef.

It’s a hugely beneficial and worthwhile course, and I was beyond thrilled to be learning these skills.

Read Jarryd’s full story here.

All images (c) Jarryd Salem

Spotlight Koh Tao 2023

World famous dive destination, Koh Tao aims to become a socially and environmentally responsible tourist destination through its tourism management and conservation and nature restoration activities.

The Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) in cooperation with the Ko Tao Tourism Association organised the ‘Spotlight Koh Tao 2023’ fam trip to Ko Tao in Surat Thani province from 7-9 April 2023, in line with its ‘Reborn the Nature’ project and to drive forward its promotion of responsible tourism and meaningful travel experiences.

The Spotlight Ko Tao 2023 fam trip aimed to raise awareness among voluntourism sector, divers, and groups of tourists who value environmental responsibility, and lead to travel package sales that will generate local income and help revitalise Thai economy.

Participating in the trip were 68 media and influencers and entrepreneurs, and representatives of Asia and South Pacific travel businesses with a focus on creating responsible tourism trends.

The fam trip programme offered various conservation activities such as coral restoration, mooring buoy repairs, marine debris collection, coral surveying, building fish homes, and tree planting. Participants also had the opportunity to make ‘Sea Glass’ jewellery from bottle waste and broken glass, ‘CoCo Tie Dye Ko Tao’ fabric from coconut husks, ‘ECO PRINT’ fabric with leaves, and ‘Plas-Tao’ by turning plastic waste into new products. Other highlights of the trip included the Ko Tao Green market, Mini Dive & Adventure Expo, island-style sports, and trying the delicious local food.

Participants invited by TAT Sydney are a renowned underwater photographer – Jayne Jenkins and accomplished underwater cinematographer – Tom Park. During their time on Koh Tao, both have participated in some underwater marine conservation activities with Black Turtle Dive. They also spent a few nights on Ko Samui in which they have visited a few temples, Samui Elephant Sanctuary – the first ethical and award winning elephant sanctuary on Ko Samui, Hua Thanon Fisherman Village and Mu Ko Angthong Marine Park – one of the most beautiful marine parks in Thailand.

While in Koh Tao, both participated in marine conservation activities and sustainable workshops – and enjoyed several memorable dives, including the stunning Sail Rock. Topside, the pair also experienced conservation in action at Samui Elephant Sanctuary.

Surat Thani province including Ko Tao is a world-renowned destination for those wanting to learn to dive, and it is aiming to become a socially and environmentally responsible tourist destination through its tourism management and conservation and nature restoration activities.

This festival of the underwater world showcases the many responsible tourism and meaningful experiences in Koh Tao, Koh Samui, and Mu Koh Ang Thong National Marine Park.

Koh Lanta Mangrove Tours with Pimalai Resort & Spa

Pimalai Resort & Spa is highlighting the importance of conserving coastal mangrove habitat with a selection of private eco tours for guests.

Mangrove habitats are critical to the health of coastal areas, not only do they provide breeding conditions and nurseries for many species of tropical fish, but they also absorb massive amounts of carbon, and provide a natural barrier to erosive powers of the ocean.

The location for these three-hour tours is Yee Peng Village on the east coast of Koh Lanta where, a bridge will welcome guests and on the other side, a path takes one deep into the mangroves.

You can spend around 15 minutes exploring the mangrove forest on your own, then jump into a gondola or longboat to go through small canals sneaking into the mangrove.

Gondolas were traditionally used to transport mangrove timbers to charcoal factories. When mangrove forests became protected, Tung Yee Peng Villagers reinvented their boats for eco-tours.

Lanta Old Town was originally a sea gypsy settlement and several decades it transformed into a village influenced by trade. There are now many shops, restaurants and homes built on stilts.

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The Old Town has a distinct Chinese influence and a very slow, laid-back feel. Walking around looking at the lanterns provides a sense of days gone by. There is no charge to visit Old Town Lanta Community Museum – a converted former Sheriff’s Office that was built during the reign of King Rama V which provides a glimpse of early community life in Koh Lanta.

Koh Lanta Lighthouse or ‘Pat-Cha-Chote-Wa-Chi-Ra-Pa’ inside Koh Lanta National Park was in service to warn mariners of dangerous shallows and perilous rocky coasts. Visitors can climb a cliff to see the lighthouse closely and enjoy the stunning view over the two bays of the Mu Koh Lanta National Park.  The lighthouse and National Park Nature trail are only a 15-minute scenic drive from Pimalai.

Pimalai conducts three-hour day and sunrise mangrove tours by gondola including transfers, tour guide, snack, tea/coffee and drinking water and three-hour tours by longboat including transfers, tour guide, kayak and drinking water.

For more information, rates and bookings visit www.pimalai.com

TAT’s 3rd Sydney Beach Cleanup at Clifton Gardens

On 28 October, 2022, the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) Sydney Office and Team Thailand Sydney took part in a beach and underwater clean-up event at Chowder Bay.

Twenty five volunteers took part, including six scuba divers, staff from TAT Sydney, the Royal Thai Consulate Sydney, Thailand Board of Investment Sydney, Thai Trade Sydney and media friends of TAT. 

This is the third time TAT Sydney has collaborated with volunteer organisation; Friends of Chowder Bay at Clifton Gardens.

Approximately 3K metres fishing line, 21 fishing lures, 8 chemical light sticks, 102 fishing hooks, 32 lead weights, 131 plastic and aluminium foil food wrappers, cans, cigarette butts, styrofoam balls and hundreds of plastic remnants were recorded.

Last year on World Ocean Day (8 June), TAT supported Spotlight Koh Tao event which comprises workshops and exhibitions that highlight the island’s dedication to conservation and land and sea revitalisation.

 

Next year (2023), TAT has committed to support the event again and we look forward to welcoming more tourists and volunteers from around Thailand and overseas to join us.

Spotlight Koh Tao 2023 is scheduled 7 – 9 April. More information here and on the Facebook page here.

 

Visit the magical islands of Koh Lanta National Park with Pimalai Resort & Spa

Southern Thailand’s beautiful Mu Ko Lanta National Park reopens to visitors on 15 October 2022 following its annual restoration. Nearby Pimalai Resort & Spa has announced immersive, small-scale excursions to two of the region’s most idyllic islands – Koh Haa and Koh Rok. 

Beautiful Koh Haa, in Koh Lanta National Park

Every year, this tropical wonderland is closed for six months to allow its delicate ecology to be refreshed and replenished. Pimalai Resort & Spa fully supports the closure and works with local authorities to protect and preserve the area.  

Mu Ko Lanta National Park is a breathtaking natural paradise – 134 square kilometres of turquoise waters, unspoiled islands, hidden coves and captivating coastlines in southern Thailand’s Krabi province. 

The Koh Haa Snorkelling & Sunset adventure transports travellers to Koh Haa (Five Islands) – a captivating collection of limestone islets that enclose an aquamarine lagoon, a vibrant coral reef and a white sandy beach. The perfect spot for an afternoon of swimming and snorkelling. On the leisurely boat ride back to Pimalai, passengers are served canapés and cool drinks, including wine and beer, as the sun sets over the Andaman Sea. 

The Fabulous Koh Rok tour is a scenic one-hour boat trip to Koh Rok, a pair of islands lined with sandy beaches lapped by warm, crystal-clear waters. Following an hour of swimming and snorkelling, guests are treated to a delicious onboard lunch before embarking on a sightseeing cruise around Koh Rok, with more opportunities to swim and explore the underwater world. 

“At Pimalai, we feel a deep connection with Mu Ko Lanta National Park and a deep responsibility to preserve it for future generations. That’s why we conduct regular coastal clean-up activities, do not allow motorised water sports and only permit small-scale, eco-sensitive excursions in the area. We are delighted to invite our conscientious guests to explore this pristine paradise when it reopens this October. Following five months of replenishing rains and no human interference, this idyllic area will be looking more breath-taking than ever,” said Charintip Tiyaphorn, Pimalai’s Owner Representative. 

Pimalai’s fleet of seven boats are all skippered by professional captains who have a deep knowledge of the local area. 

Pimalai is featuring Early Bird Promotions with discounts of 10 to 30 percent on bookings through to 31 October 2023. Rates commence at THB6652 (approximately AUD270) per night including daily breakfast and a roundtrip Krabi Airport transfer for two people.

For more information visit www.pimalai.com