Category: Travel Guide

Thailand’s ancient capital, established in the early 13^th century, Sukhothai is located 427km north of Bangkok, and literally means “Dawn of Happiness.” For 120 years Sukhothai was ruled by many kings, the most famous being King Ramkhamhaeng the Great, who created the Thai alphabet and laid the foundation for politics, monarchy and religion.

Here are 10 reasons to visit and 10 things to do in Sukhothai.

1. Sukhothai Historical Park.

In Sukhothai’s golden era, this city was the centre of south-east Asia and the ruins from that glorious time have been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. The park is home to ruins of royal palaces, Buddhist temples, historical monuments and the remains of ancient moats, walls, and city gates. A significant feature of the complex is Wat Maha That. Inside this temple is a grand pagoda surrounded by another 8 pagodas in the shape of a lotus, and at the front gate, a giant Buddha statue called Phra Atha Ros.

2. Ban Na Ton Chan Homestay

This homestay is located in Tambon Ban Tuek, Amphoe Si Satchanalai. Here you can experience the villagers’ way of life and their crafts. Khit cloth weaving in the ancient ‘Dok Phikun’ floral pattern, mud-soaked cloth making, basketry, wooden toys, and furniture made from tree roots and stumps. Visit the stray elephant nursing centre and seasonal fruit orchards.

3. Wat Si Chum.

This temple houses a large monumental stucco Buddha image in the attitude of subduing Mara called “Phra Atchana”, which is 11.3m in width. The roof has already disintegrated, exposing just four walls of stuccoed bricks. In the days of the Phra Ruang Dynasty, to boost morale of the ancient soldiers, monks walked through a hidden passageway and addressed people through a hole, making them believe the voice they were hearing was actually the Buddha.

4. Si Satchanalai Historical Park.

A visit to Sukhothai wouldn’t complete without a visit to the historical site of the ancient Si Satchanalai City, the second largest city after Sukhothai during its golden days. The park is home to ruins of palaces, temples and domestic dwellings. Main attractions include Wat Phra Si Mahathat, Wat Chang Lom and Wat Chedi Jet Taew, all of which feature authentic Sukhothai architectural style.

5. Cycling in Sukhothai Historical Park.

One of the best ways to explore this archaeological site is by bicycle. There is a rental bike service in front of the Historical Park.

6. Loi Krathong and Candle Festival.

Sukhothai’s Loi Krathong is held annually on the full moon night of the 12th lunar month at the Sukhothai Historical Park. Activities during the festival include krathong or banana-leaf cup floating, a fireworks display, local games, processions, and traditional performances that reflect the lifestyle of the people as described in the stone inscription, as well as, a light and sound presentation.

7. Sangkhalok Museum.

This private museum houses the most comprehensive collection of Sangkalok porcelains, a type of porcelain produced during the Sukhothai kingdom.

8. King Ramkhamhaeng, The Great Momument.

This attraction tells the story of Sukhothai through models of historical buildings and structures, best explored by tram or bicycle.

9. Ramkhamhaeng National Park (Khao Luang).

At 1200m above the sea level, this national park is great for nature lovers, with lush green mountainous landscapes, beautiful waterfalls and plenty of wildlife. It’s also home to several archaeological sites where several ancient tools and relics have been found, popular for historians and theologians.

10. Sathorn Golden Textile Museum.

The impressive Sathorn Golden Textile Museum is owned by a retired textile broker, Sathorn Sorajprasobsanti. Many of the fabrics here were made in Ban Had Saew Village where the Tai Puan people built their community during the reign of Rama II, and were renowned for their hand-woven textiles.

Writing for Adventure.com, writer John Borthwick heads off on the longest border-to-border Thailand rail route he can find.

The writer began his train journey in Nong Khai, northeast Thailand to travel from Laos to Malaysia via the longest border-to-border Thailand rail route he could find.

Borthwick’s Thailand railway travel tips include booking ahead, especially if close to Thai public holidays. “In sleeper class, choose the lower bunk; wider and slightly more expensive,” he says.

Here’s a short extract – you can read the full story at Adventure.com.

A red-hot sun bellyflops, slowly, into the Mekong. For a moment, I imagine the great mother river erupting, boiling itself dry like a thermo-nuclear tea kettle.

The river is as calm as a monk. And as the sun recedes, a thumbnail moon soon hangs in the dusk above it. Propped on the Thai shore with the lights of Laos coming on across the water, I ask myself, “Why leave?”

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Arriving somewhere special, only to then leave it for somewhere else is the paradox that inhabits most of our travels. I’ve come to Nong Khai in northeast Thailand in order to leave—in this case on a train, and then on more trains, from Laos to Malaysia via the longest border-to-border Thailand rail route I can find.

Every Thai train station has a gleaming brass bell. At 7.45am sharp, Nong Khai’s station master steps up to his one and gives it a resounding whack. Train 76 lurches forward, moving south to Krung Thep, aka Bangkok.

Arctic aircon, the way Thais like it, chills this second-class carriage. But the seats are padded, unlike the slatted benches of hard-arse class that I recall from years ago. A snappily-dressed conductor scans our tickets. My fellow travellers are mothers and kids, couples, and a rotating cast of snack vendors who work the aisles. Shun, a Japanese traveler in the seat next to me, soon pulls down his hoodie and barely stirs for the rest of the journey...

Read the full story at Adventure.com

All images: (c) John Borthwick

Founder of Expert Travel Media, writer Paula Morgan is well-known for her comprehensive travel guides; Sydney Expert and Australia Your Way. Paula has now set her sights on creating an equally comprehensive guide for travellers to Thailand: Thailand Awaits. Here’s an excerpt from the Expert Guide to Pattaya – a taste what to expect from this new blog!

PATTAYA GUIDE 2023: DISCOVER THE BEST BEACHES AND ATTRACTIONS

Walking Street, beer bars and sunburn? Another beach and more bars? There’s much more for visitors to Pattaya, Thailand’s premium party town, than the old cliches from last century. How about fine dining, five-star hotels and family attractions?

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“Pattaya, the Extreme City,” declares the welcome arch at Jomtien Beach, the southern portal to sprawling Pattaya. It’s a fair description, or brag, because Pattaya and its zones run the gauntlet from beach resort, family destination and expat retirement enclave to red light bar-world, and back again via golf mecca and much more.

These days the town has a growing sophistication that overshadows its still-rocking nightlife…

This comprehensive guide to Pattaya includes a guide to the region’s beaches, theme parks, shopping, dining out, night clubs, hotels and golf courses, as well as information on how to get there, and how to get around.

Read the full Guide to Pattaya here.

Travel writer John Borthwick considers all options traveling on Thailand’s transports of delight and occasional despair.

Bicycle (City)

In Bangkok, sheer masochism. The Big Mango’s traffic is constant and intimidating; might is right and two wheels are “wrong” unless they’re attached to a motorbike. Chiang Mai’s traffic is safer.

Bicycle (Touring)

On the other hand, seeing Thailand by cycle is a joy, especially if you choose a flat, under populated province like coastal Prachuap Khiri Khan. There are numerous cycle tour companies like Spice Roads and Grasshopper Adventures.

You can also join cycle tours to raise money for Thai charities, such as those organised in Australia by Hands Across the Water.

Mass Transit, Bangkok.

The capital has an ever-expanding system of well over 60 BTS SkyTrain and MRT metro subway stations that whisk you over or under the street-level snarls. They’re clean and airconditioned although often SRO crowded. The SkyTrain has a one-day Unlimited Pass for 150 baht that’s ideal for visitors; or there’s a 120-baht day pass for the MRT.

Canal Boat

Skinny canal boat ferries rocket along Bangkok’s khlong, making fleeting pit-stops at commuter wharves. Leap on and off — almost literally — at wherever stop you want. The conductor collects fares on board. This is a cheap-as-chips tour of Bangkok’s watery backdoors.

Car

Major international companies like Hertz, Budget and Avis, as well as local brands, offer late model vehicles (all are right-hand drive) for self-driving. But, for convenience and sightseeing, seriously consider hiring a car plus driver. Meanwhile, be sure to understand the insurance policy and always drive with your passport, your home country driver licence and an international driving permit on you.

Coach or Bus

Long-distance intercity buses crisscross the country. They are large, airconditioned, economical, colorful, have allocated seating and run to schedule (often on the hour), departing from large suburban bus stations like BKK’s Ekamai (eastern) and Mo Chit (northern) terminals.

Inter-island Ferry

Travelling to poplar islands like Chang, Krabi, Kood and others is done by large ferry — some carry vehicles, others only people. Meanwhile speedboats (see below) serve the smaller islands. On some ferry services like Hua Hin—Pattaya you need to have official ID; for foreigners, this is your passport.

Longtail Boat

Rua hang yao are narrow-hulled craft with a howling diesel motor and long, extended propeller shaft — the “long tail”. They’re found everywhere from city canals to island beaches. Sit low, hang on, wear a life jacket if there is one and be prepared to cop some spray.

Motorcycle

Rental motorbikes are popular in most tourist centres and thus are a regular source of injured and dead foreigners. Understand: wear the helmet (it’s the law, despite all the Thais who don’t wear one). Stay sober (what could possibly go wrong? — you lose your insurance cover, for starters). Never assume you have right of way. Carry your passport and driver licence on you (and never leave either one as “deposit” for the motorbike). Question: does your travel insurance cover you? Probably not, unless you hold a valid motorcycle licence from your home country. (Australians, please note, a car licence is insufficient for motorbike insurance.)

Motorcycle Taxi

Moto-si dudes linger like home boys on city corners wearing numbered, low-vis vests. State your destination. Then agree on the fare — prices start from about 60 baht for a short trip, depending where you are. Use the helmet. Settle back for a slipstreaming, tailgating, maximum monoxide view of the traffic stampede. Freaky fun.

Plane

Thailand has an extensive domestic air network serviced by good carriers like Nok, Thai Smile, Air Asia and Bangkok Airways.

River Ferry

Bangkok has several main ferry services. The local commuter service, the Chao Phraya River Express is quick, crowded and cheap. It services numerous whistle-stop wharves and an on-board conductor collects fares. The Chao Phraya Tourist Boat is visitor-oriented and stops at piers near all main attractions — a one-day pass for 200 baht is recommended. The main departure point is Sathorn aka Central Pier, at Saphan Taksin Bridge. A new electric ferry service called My Smart Ferry is now operation, running between Rama V Bridge and Sathorn/Central piers, with weekend cruise itineraries.

Songtaew or Baht Bus

In many places the most popular and economical form of suburban travel is the songthaew — “two seat” — a canopied light pick-up truck with two, inward-facing bench seats in the rear. Generally, they run on local circuit routes and passengers join and alight at any point, paying a flat fee. In Pattaya (where they are also called “baht buses”), for instance, the fare is 10 baht for Thais and foreigners alike. A longer journey is 20 baht. In other tourist destinations like Samui you might encounter invidious “double pricing” for foreigners.

Speedboat

Large passenger launches, with a canopy and powerful outboard motors, service smaller islands and daytrip excursions. They are fast and reliable but can be a bit crowded. Grab a life jacket and wear it. Make your reservation in advance.

Taxi

Bangkok meter taxis are plentiful and inexpensive. Many drivers speak little English so it’s good to have your destination address written in Thai script. Be sure the meter is on (flag-fall, 35 baht); if the driver won’t use it (“Sorry, broken”), just hop out — the next cab is about one minute away. Things are more difficult on some popular tourist islands where most taxis won’t use the meter and demand extortionate fares; try to use your hotel transfer service instead.

Tuk-tuk

The iconic tuk-tuk (real name samlor, “three-wheel”) is unmetered and drivers will charge whatever they think they can. Usually more expensive than a meter taxi. Don’t start your ride without agreeing on the fare. Mutant tuk-tuks are sometimes called Skylabs, such as on Koh Si Chang.

Van

Intercity passenger vans are fast, furious, frequent and risky. They have a dubious safety record in a country with one of worst road fatality figures anywhere. Flyer beware. Catch the bus or train instead.

Train

Thailand has a good rail network and rail travel is a great way to see the country and to meet Thai people. Trains run on time and are clean, even if the rolling stock aged. The Bangkok—Chiang Mai Express is the classic rail journey, a 750-km night ride that will rock you on the narrow, one-metre gauge track. Reserve your seat in advance especially if travelling near public holidays. For much convenience and a small fee, book through an agent.

Words and photographs © John Borthwick 2023

Travel writer John Borthwick shares his top tips for navigating Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi International Airport.

Suvarnabhumi Airport, aka Bangkok Airport, is pronounced in elegant, Thai-style tones as Soo-wanna-poom. And not phonetically as blunt Sue Varna Boomy. Alternatively, is known among many expats by the nickname, “Swampy”. Ironically so, since the airport was built on a former wetland known as the Cobra Swamp.

Where is it?

Well-designed and well-run Suvarnabhumi is 35km by road from central Bangkok. The easiest way to reach it is by the Airport Link train from downtown Makkasan or Phaya Thai stations. The 26-minute trip costing 45 baht (A$1.80) delivers you to the basement level of the airport. Alternatively, a taxi that takes a little, or much, longer depending on traffic, costs around 400 baht (A$16) and brings you right to the Departures hall doors.

The Big Picture

The terminal which opened in 2006 is a long, low structure that resembles a series of angular, wave-like forms. The world’s tallest free-standing control tower looms 132 metres over it. Departures, at the highest of the airport’s five levels, occupies an open-plan space with high ceilings. As Thailand’s principal domestic and international air hub, and servicing over 65 million passengers a year, Suvarnabhumi gets busy and is vast, so plan accordingly. It is wheelchair-friendly, has electric transfer buggies (by arrangement), lifts to all levels and accessible toilets. Face masks are not required.

Departure Checking-In

Check-in rows for the multiple airlines stretch across the entire, length of the Departures level. Signage in English and information screens direct you to the appropriate row. Traffic flow is efficient but Suvarnabhumi is very spread-out so take account of the long walking distances in the full departure sequence. If you’ve purchased eligible duty-free goods and hold the necessary VAT refund papers you need to have the items inspected (don’t pack them in your checked luggage) and have the forms certified while you are still “landside”. That is, before passing through Security and Immigration. This VAT processing desk is at the far righthand end of the Departures hall.

Security

After checking-in you proceed upstairs to Security at the mezzanine level and then down to Immigration, where queues can be long. Tip: towards the righthand end of the Departures hall is a dedicated but low-key entrance for Buddhist monks, infirm passengers and “Over 70” seniors, including foreigners. Definitely use it if you’re eligible. Security is thorough and polite, and involves the usual laptops out, belts off, no liquids, and similar shakedown. But it doesn’t end there. Later, at the boarding gate to Australia-bound flights (and selected others) there is a final, manual inspection of carry-on items for all passengers. Again, allow plenty of time.

Killing Time

Having cleared Immigration you descend a wide ramp, at the foot of which is a long, large, colourful sculpture from Hindu (not Buddhist) mythology depicting an episode called the Churning of the Ocean of Milk. Other than this there are few features of Thai cultural note, with shopping and imbibing being the main events. If shopping bores you, head to an airline lounge should you have access. Free WiFi is available in most areas.

Booze and chews

“Landside” (before Security and Immigration) on level three there are numerous restaurants, bars and cafes. Similar outlets are also located “airside”, offering Japanese, Western, Korean, fast-food franchises and of course Thai food.

Retail Ambush

After Immigration if you’re eligible for a duty-free goods refund present your paperwork at the dedicated VAT desk. You’ll be paid in Thai baht, which you can then spend on more duty-free goods such as spirits, electronics, photographic gear, cosmetics and the usual brand-name apparel, although nothing is notably cheap. Several large outlets specialise Thai handicrafts, souvenirs, silks and packaged foods.

Other Stuff

Baggage storage: if you’re in transit or for whatever reason need to store luggage, there are two Left Luggage counters, at Level two and Level Four. 100THB/day per item. Level Two (Arrivals) has rows of bank counters, car hire offices, ATMs, SIM card sales outlets and hotel booking booths. If departing from the airport to the city or other Thai towns, head downstairs to the taxis and coaches on the ground floor, or further down to the basement for the Airport Link train. Also at this lowest level are money changing booths offering probably the best rates you’ll find anywhere, as well as short-term sleeping accommodation. More: bangkokairport.net